Each time we travel I return with a strong urge to cook. As I prepare meals at home with more regularity I find that I miss that process strenuously when it's taken out of my routine for more than a couple of days.
Last week we were in Nashville, where we ate some very satisfying meals. But I did no cooking at all (unless you call ruining the in-room coffee in the hotel mini-pot cooking) and dammit all, I missed it!
It felt good to go grocery shopping on Monday morning, a task I usually dread. It felt good to say hello to the familiar faces who know me by name at my local stores. It felt good to haul heavy bags down the hall and sort through their contents in my kitchen. (I even remembered to bring my reusable bags, which I often forget to do.)
This week I wanted to roast a whole chicken - something I'd been avoiding of late because roasting only the breasts is just easier and I was in a rut.
I wanted to make a big pot of golden chicken stock, because I am a purist and I have a sinus headache and though I touted its merits at the time, that last multi-animal bone jiggly version I'd created was just not as good as the real thing, which perfumed my home today.
I wanted a big piece of cod, because I love cod. That's what we will be eating tonight. (Cod is not chicken. I had to amend my title.)
And because we'd had an over-salted version of it at City House in Nashville, I wanted to make a flavorful chicken liver ragu.
I'd planned to add some ground pork to the ragu, but the package I had smelled a bit questionable so I added some crimini mushrooms instead. Other than that it was the same procedure as last time, except I used a can of crushed tomatoes (instead of a quart of pre-made meat gravy from the freezer), and I cut the livers into much smaller pieces. This version was a clear winner - we devoured the entire 12 ounce package of pappardelle - and thankfully there was about a quart of the ragu left over to freeze for future use.
I didn't follow a recipe per se, but what follows is the basic idea. Though I don't mention it, everything gets a hit of salt and pepper as it goes into the pot.
Finely chop about half a red onion and a head of garlic cloves and saute over medium-low heat in olive oil in a big pot until softened. Then raise the heat to high and add about 10 ounces of chicken livers, diced into small pieces (I used scissors - be sure to discard any gall bladders and overtly visible connective tissue).
Add about 4 ounces of diced mushrooms and saute until the livers are just cooked. Add a splash of red vermouth and simmer for a few more minutes. Then add a 28 ounce can of crushed tomatoes and some ribbons of fresh sage leaves. Simmer for about 20-30 minutes. Taste, and adjust seasonings to your liking.
I like my ragus to 'mature' for a day before serving, so I made this on Tuesday and we ate it Wednesday night. I think the flavors deepen this way, but you can certainly eat it immediately after cooking. It's delicious either way!
I boiled a 12 ounce package of dried pappardelle, though fettuccine would work, as would shells or orrechiette - anything that would hold the gravy and bits of livers!
Top with grated romano and fresh sage leaves, and watch your man (or whomever you are feeding) melt into a helpless puppy dog!
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