What can be said about Twin Oaks that hasn't been said before? Since this old-school bastion of Italian American food has been around since the 1930's, I'm guessing not a lot remains untapped, but here's my take.
Having grown up in Cranston, Warwick, and Providence, Twin Oaks was to me always in the background. I have vague memories of going as a child, or hearing grandma rave about her leftover lobster club, but really, it was not front and foremost in my life.
Lately, however, for many reasons I suppose, including my ever-growing sense that this world is a scary and cold place, I've been reaching out to things that bring me comfort. Since this is largely not a conscious process, it was an innocent question that brought the words 'Twin Oaks' to my lips a month or so ago: "Where do you want to eat, Steph?"
So we were.
To understand Twin Oaks, one must first take in the sheer size of the operation. This place is big, and busy. Wander in during lunchtime on a weekday and you're likely to find nary a booth to call your own. Friday and Saturday nights? Plan to wait, my friend, unless you've got connections. Despite the magnitude - or perhaps because of it - this place runs extremely efficiently. The service is very fast and exceedingly polite - not in an ingratiating way, but in a no-nonsense old fashioned way. It's like you're stepping back in time.
The time warp thing is likely due to its long history. In 1928, during Prohibition, owner William DeAngelus, Sr. began distilling whiskey to sell to friends, and the basement of his home became a speakeasy. After federal agents shut this operation down, the original Twin Oaks opened later that year, with seating for 56 in 3 small dining rooms. Today, in its current location, there are six dining rooms that can accommodate close to 650 people.
And the food? It doesn't get more old-school than this. The menu is huge, with sandwiches and specials popping off the page at lunch, and everything from broiled steaks to veal parmesan to baked stuffed shrimp pleasing the dinner crowds. The appetizers run to the old fashioned as well, with offerings rarely seen anywhere these days - like celery with anchovies, sardines on lettuce, and fried smelts.
I usually get broiled swordfish and the man has his chicken parmesan fix. Or a steak. Last week it was a steak. These bacon-wrapped scallops were an appetizer special. They went very quickly.
With such history, I recommend that Anthony Bourdain take time to visit Twin Oaks when he comes to Providence later this month! It reflects the patina of this state so well, and is a comfort on many levels, especially in the frigid days of winter in January.
Twin Oaks
100 Sabra Street
Cranston, RI 02910-1099
(401) 781-9693
http://www.twinoaksrest.com
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